From Qvevri to Khinkali: our wine & dine road trip through Georgia

When you type in "wine country, great food, friendly people, nature, mountains, beach, and family-friendly" into ChatGPT, the answer isn't France. Or Italy. Or Spain. No - surprisingly, it was Georgia. And so began our journey to this mysterious crossroads of Europe and Asia.

We had no expectations. Literally none. No clue about the people, the traffic, the climate, or even the food, other than vague memories of amber wines and something called khachapuri. But when ChatGPT lit up with “Georgia,” we were intrigued. After two weeks in Georgia with our toddler, our love of wine and a sturdy appetite, we can tell you: it was one of the most flavourful and fascinating trips we’ve ever taken.

Tbilisi sunset

Tbilisi: Chaos meets charm

Our landing spot: Tbilisi. A little raw, a little loud, with lots of crazy traffic. but it quickly won us over. The old town’s winding alleys, pastel balconies, unexpected art, and yes, very good food had us strolling, nibbling, sipping and smiling.

Batumi & the Black Sea: resort reset at Magnika Resort

Next stop: the coast. Magnika Resort, just outside Batumi, gave us three blissful nights of doing... absolutely nothing. Two minutes from the beach, a pool with cocktails and crispy bites, and just enough entertainment for little ones to let you sip your wine in peace.

A quick adventure to Batumi and the slightly surreal Tsitsinatela amusement park reminded us we were still very much on holiday. Family-friendly without being “family-only” - a rare gem.

Into the wild: Glamping Georgia

Sleeping underneath the stars

From sea to summit: our next stop was Glamping Georgia in Krikhi. Picture trees all around, crisp air, a pool that sparkles under the sun, and mornings with breakfast delivered to your bed. And there's nothing better than falling asleep below falling stars. We could stare at the sky from the window above our bed.

But the culinary highlight in this area? Dinner at Tchrebalo Wine Cellar in the nearby village. A crispy roast chicken drenched in tangy tkemali plum sauce, a Georgian take on Shkmeruli, and the kind of herb-laced magic that makes you believe in natural remedies again. Best hangover cure? This dish. Hands down.

Serenity on top of the hill at Glamping Tago

Borjomi to Tago: the road less paved

A quick detour to Borjomi gave us a market stroll and a charming lunch at Dimitri’s Wine Cellar (look out for their experimental wines!). But the real magic lay ahead - Glamping Tago, all the way up to the Adjaran mountains, which really deserves its own novel.

The drive up was dramatic: switchbacks, fog, rogue cows. But at the top? Pure peace. Yoga at sunrise, yurts with jaw-dropping views, and the most stylish compost toilet you’ll ever see. Plant-based buffet breakfast and dinners left us feeling healthy and glowing.

And then came Davit.

While walking through the village, we were waved into the backyard of a man who turned out to be chef, winemaker, gardener and host extraordinaire. Davit served us what can only be described as a rustic Michelin experience: hand-picked herbs, roasted chicken, veal stew, tomato salad from his garden, homemade plum sauce, and his surprisingly excellent natural wines. Michelin, take that road up the mountain please.

Cows, chaos, Kakheti

The descent from Tago was - to put it lightly - eventful. Think fog, slippery tracks, barking dogs, galloping cows. And just when we thought it couldn’t get wilder, we hit the long road to Kakheti, Georgia’s most famous wine region.

Restaurant Doli in Telavi

At the heart of Georgia’s Kakheti wine region.

In Telavi, we found our groove again. A lively little town full of wine bars, spice-scented markets (where pig heads and bunches of coriander share counter space), and a buzzing food scene. Khinkali dumplings are the local heroes here: juicy, spiced, and dangerously filling. You’ll want one of each kind, but trust us - three is enough.

We dined at Doli (order their house Saperavi), lunched at Zadiaqo with the locals, and happily gave up meat for vegetables for a day or two. 

Qvevri vs. stainless: a wine nerd's delight

At Schuchmann Wines, we dove deep into Georgia’s 8000-year-old wine tradition. Their use of qvevri - giant clay amphorae buried underground - produces wines that are wilder, deeper, and a touch unpredictable.

Tasting the same grape (Saperavi, naturally) in both qvevri and stainless steel styles was fascinating. The qvevri wine had tannic bite, earthy funk, and a brooding depth. The European version? Clean, polished, more familiar. Both brilliant, just different dance partners.

Signaghi: five-star finale

We wrapped things up in serious style at Bodbe Hotel in Signaghi. For only €120 a night (yes, really), we were swept up in luxury: golf carts, suitcases carried, and a serene mountain-view indoor pool where our son finally got his promised swim.

From here, we drove to the David Gareja monastery and wandered through a surreal, Martian desert landscape at the Azerbaijani border. Just us, our 4x4 (we drove a Subaru by Cars4Rent) and birds we couldn’t name. Spooky. Majestic. Unforgettable.

The last supper

Back in Tbilisi, now based in the artsy Fabrika district, we celebrated our final evening at Shavi Lomi. Make sure to visit this place if you ever visit Tbilisi, if you want to taste the ultimate comfort food Georgia has to offer.

Hidden behind quirky doors, this modern Georgian gem served up the meal we’d been dreaming of: beef shank stew with Saperavi and pomegranate, Shkmeruli chicken in garlic cream, spicy pumpkin soup, grilled salmon with basil oil - and a perfect amber wine to toast our last night.

Final thoughts

Georgia is a country of contrasts: chaotic cities and silent mountains, ancient wines and fresh ideas, smoky meats and delicate herbs. It may not be for the faint-hearted (especially when it comes to driving), but it rewards the curious with depth, warmth and more flavour than your palate thought was possible.

Georgia, we’ll be back - with emptier stomachs and even bigger appetites.

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Girls’ weekend at Landgoed De Wilmersberg